In Olevano Romano, on the volcanic slopes of Monte Celeste between 300 and 450 metres above sea level, the Ciolli family has grown Cesanese di Affile for four generations, a near-forgotten Lazio grape before Damiano and his father Costantino began, in 2001, bottling it themselves rather than selling it as bulk wine. The visit crosses the family's five hectares of vineyard, including the 65-year-old vines that give rise to the Cirsium cru, then continues at the winery with the vinification of its two signature labels, Cirsium and Silene. With production of around 20,000 bottles a year, Damiano Ciolli is today considered the winemaker who brought Cesanese di Olevano Romano back to international critical attention.